Rolling Ledfords: Discovering the Mobile Bay Area

We were up early today as we were eager to see as much of the Mobile Bay area as possible in one day since we have to leave here in the early tomorrow. Our first stop was the Mobile Carnival Museum in the Historical area.

WOW! We had no idea what was behind Mardi Gras nor the fact that it all started in Mobile, not New Orleans.

Did you know that Mardi Gras was first observed in the new world in 1703? While it was nothing like the celebrations today, it was held in the first settlement of Mobile. The first masked parading happened in 1830 when some men who later formed the Cowbellion de Rakin Society grabbed rakes, shovels and other tools on a New Year's Eve and started yelling and parading about in their New Year's Eve finery. They continued doing this for several years before others decided to form their own organization and also carry on as these men were. Now there are over 50 parading and non parading groups with such names as the Polka Dot Ladies, Santa Claus Society, Order of the Inca, etc. Each of these organizations has its own requirements of joining and putting on parades and balls all associated with the carnival. The members not only pay for all of their own outfits but pay for the floats for the parades, the things they throw, the dinners and coronations they hold, and any other costs that are incurred during the Mardi Gras celebrations which go on for 3 weeks. The amount of money spent is mind boggling when you realize that outfits run into the thousands - especially the ones worn by the kings and queens.

The woman who greeted us at the gift shop attached to the museum and collected our money for a tour was a queen many years ago. Her robe, dress, crown are now on display. Many of the past "royalty" have loaned their outfits so they can get a tax deduction rather than store it all at home. For that we were grateful since we could get a chance to see some of the finery. This is just one example of a "robe" worn by one of the queens for the coronation, parade and dinner party. She probably spent upwards of $10,000 or more making it and it weighs around 25 pounds so it took a great deal of effort to wear it and walk in it gracefully. Each of these is meant to tell something about the person who is wearing it. You can tell gardening was important to her.

This shot gives an idea of the detail. And yes that is fur around the edge.

The kings finery is just as elaborate.

Even children are involved playing the part of pages in elaborate outfits.

Only in recent years have people sometimes borrowed or rented some of their attire. Sill most want there own personally designed and made outfits which can cost more than a car!!!

Some of the organizations put humor in their choices gear such as this group that honors an Indian that is now buried in the nearby historical cemetery where only those with a loved one buried there can go. To get around that they dress up a lady as his dearly departed widow (he now has many) and also as his mistress (he now has many). It is apparently quite an elaborate event to attend looking over the fence into the graveyard.

At one time they had a child king and child queen with all the pomp of the adult courts including upwards to 100 children all in courtly clothes. This is an example of a former child king.

After spending a couple of hours touring the rooms and ooing and ahing over all the outfits, we decided to walk around he area just to take in some of the beautiful old buildings and homes. The wrought iron balconys are mindful of New Orleans

There were several parks in the area including this one dedicated to the Spanish, founders of the area.

With lots of statuary, ornate benches and greenery. Most of the parks have lots of azalea bushes that must have been spectacular to see just a few weeks ago. Now only a lonely blossom here and there remains.

Queen Isabella who gave Colombus the jewels to help pay for his explorations still has beads on her head from the last Mardi Gras.

In this same area is the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception build in 1835 with a gorgeous green in front of it with fountains, greenery and benches.

Lovely stained glass windows line each side aisle wall.

This put us on Dauphin Street where where many of the old homes and buildings have been converted to shops and restaurants. We enjoyed lunch at Spot of Tea where we could sit outdoors along the narrow street and just enjoy our surroundings.

In this same area is Fort Conde built by the French between 1723 and 1735, It is shaped in the form of a four-sided star. The British won the French and Indian War and took over. The Spanish then captured the area during the American Revolution. Eventually the Americans won the area and the fort fell into their hands. It was demolished in the 1820s so the prime land could be used for homes and shops. The foundation was found in 1976 when the huge tunnel entry into Mobile was being built. The original plans were found and a section of the fort rebuilt on top of the tunnels to be used as a Visitor Center and part of the History Museum which is in the next block.

While a the Visitor Center we got a copy of the Oyster Shell Trail and fun finding some of the 24 decorative shells that now are placed around the area telling the ecological and economic benefit oysters provide to Mobile Bay.

From there we decided to drive to Dauphin Island which sits out in the Gulf of Mexico with the other side on Mobile Bay. It is a very skinny island with several neat places to visit but by the time we got there the Audubon Bird Sanctuary, Sea Lab, and Fort Gaines were closed for the day. Still we could get great views of the water from the western end public beach and eastern end ferry landing. We counted 14 gas off shore wells.